Shawarma, Falafel, Sabich Are Best Devoured on the Run

Liz Grossman

Hit up Chicago’s Benjyehuda during any given lunch hour and you’ll witness a well-oiled whirlwind of delicious chaos. As the line snakes out the door, the first guests to get a glimpse of juicy cones of chicken or steak shawarma mounted on rotisseries succumb to the typical Pavlovian response. As they approach the flurry of activity behind the counter, the enticements continue: Heaping piles of vibrant orange carrot salad, pickles, tomatoes and onions and more...