Searching for Salt Shakers

For my first industry gig, I was a polyester vest- and tie-clad cater-waiter. The days and banquets were nearly indistinguishable. Pop tables, drop linens, set out flatware, and pyramid-fold napkins. Two gravy boats, a small bouquet, and salt and pepper shakers anchored the setup. As that summer turned to fall, the dishwashers, to whom we delivered trays stacked with dirty plates and who controlled the back of house music, started blaring a new song, “Salt Shaker” by...