For Palestinians, Food Preserves a Displaced National Identity

Red poppies and yellow dandelions leaned into the spring air as we packed up our slew of cars. One car took the dome-shaped iron saj, another the basins of dough, another the coolers with meat, dips, and salads. It was late spring and the whole family was heading out into the surrounding mountains to forage for za’atar and borage leaves. While some people foraged, others lit a fire,...