Old-School French Bistro Dishes Get a Modern Update

“The concept of the dish is snails walking through the forest in Burgundy. I was working with a chef and we were really into foraging and were like, ‘What if we did a dish with two snails walking through the forest?’ The snails are served chilled. Most escargot are served warm, and you obviously can’t serve these cold in butter, so I thought going the crème fraîche route would be the best way. For...