Food

New England Chefs Deploy Root Vegetables to Keep Menus Fresh

Sean Kenniff

It’s no wonder the modern farm-to-table movement started in Berkeley, Calif., where the average low temperature in the dead of winter is a balmy 44°F. On the flipside, temperatures from Connecticut to Maine may remain below zero for weeks at a time. For New England cooks, root vegetables aren’t precious, they’re practical (no tea, no shade, Alice). Cooking locally just means something different in the pot roast hinterlands of America. Knowing the difference between early- and...