Modern Filipino Chefs are Vegging up the Classics

Amber Matheson

Let’s not kid ourselves: Filipino cuisine is no one’s idea of classic vegetarian fare; even the “vegetarian” section of a Filipino menu is likely to contain dishes built on pork, seafood or bagoong (shrimp paste). But a new wave of Filipino chefs is proving vegetables don’t have to be dull.

Dorothy Hernandez and Jake Williams of Detroit’s pop-up Filipino restaurant Sarap concoct inventive five-course...