Meet the Chefs Riding Lima’s New Culinary Wave

Nicholas Gill

Just a few decades ago, Lima was a culinary backwater. There were a few good restaurants to be found, but most travelers who came through were just waiting on a flight to Machu Picchu: one ceviche and then out. It’s a different world now. Lima has become one of the world’s great gastronomic hubs, with an astounding variety that ranges from beef heart skewers cooked on sidewalk...