Landlocked Chefs Recreate Seafood Shacks with Freshwater Fish

Liz Grossman

You think of classic seafood shacks located on the coast, but seafood-loving chefs are recreating the casual atmosphere and celebration of both local seafood and fried goodness in landlocked locales. At Milwaukee’s St. Paul Fish Co., local walleye and rainbow trout make regular appearances on the simple, seafood shack-inspired menu. “In the Midwest there’s a lack of that fast-casual seafood concept,” says Culinary Director J.P. Toske, who breads Lake Erie...