Food

Japan's Stand-Up Steakhouses Adapt to American Habits

Ariel Cheung

In a tightly packed city like Tokyo, having a standing-room-only steakhouse with whip-fast service makes a lot of sense. Standing bars, known as tachinomiya, are a popular concept in Japanese cities, but when the Ikinari group brought its standing steak bars to New York City in 2017, the concept needed a little tweaking. “In the beginning, it was a novelty for people,” says Al Munoz, corporate chef for Ikinari Steak USA. “...