This Isn't Your Basic Butter Chicken

A stalwart of the Indian restaurant, murgh makhani—aka butter chicken—has gotten new life, thanks in part to a generation of chefs that have been interpreting the luxuriously sauced classic. Riffs run the gamut from faithful to hedonistic. 

At Adda in Queens, N.Y., Chintan Pandya offers a textbook version that takes its cues from Delhi. He marinates the chicken overnight, bakes it in a tandoor, and finishes it...