Indian-American Chefs Update the Classics for Modern Tastes

Gabriella Gershenson

More than 10 years ago, when Troy MacLarty started writing his business plan for Bollywood Theater, his Indian street food restaurant in Portland, Ore., he got cold feet. “I didn’t have any good models in Portland to see that it could be successful,” says MacLarty, a veteran of Chez Panisse who had specialized in Italian cooking, but fell in love with Indian food along the way. Reassurance came in the...