How to Serve Breakfast for Dinner—And Dinner for Breakfast

Naomi Tomky

On the streets of Saigon, Seattle chef Eric Banh explains, dishes are tied to specific times of day. The duck leg soup—mì vit tiêm—he serves at the three branches of Ba Bar, his Seattle Vietnamese café, is a traditional late-night dish. But since his restaurants are open from morning until well into the evening, Banh knew that he needed to make...