Here's Why the Conversation About Indian Food is Just Getting Started

Chandra Ram

Like a lot of Indian-Americans, I’ve been put in the position of defending Indian food for years, against the usual complaints: it was too brown, too spicy, too sauce-heavy. I remember when Floyd Cardoz opened Tabla in 1998, and food writers announcing it was time for Indian food to be taken seriously by Americans. But Cardoz also got pushback for combining Indian and French flavors and cooking techniques in a fine-dining restaurant (and...