California’s Café Ohlone Blazes a Trail for Contemporary Indigenous Cuisine

Café Ohlone doesn’t follow typical restaurant practices. The Indigenously-run pop-up restaurant in Berkeley serving the first foods of California—what it calls contemporary Ohlone cuisine—is safely tucked out of sight on a back patio of an academic bookstore, University Press Books. There’s no sign. It’s not open five or six days a week, and its hours of service are subject to change. Before diners dig into their meal, there is a lecture to...