Why Flour Tortillas Deserve Your Respect

Los Angeles, with its large and well-established Hispanic population, has long held a reputation as a taco wonderland, but lately, many of the hottest tacos in town are arriving with a twist, in the form of all-too-often-maligned flour tortillas. Corn tortillas tend to steal the spotlight: many American diners consider them more “traditional,” and some chefs tout their use of heirloom maize and freshly nixtamalized masa to enhance their...