Steakhouse Dessert Trays Lighten Up

In an era of restaurant concepts ranging from the sleekly minimal to the hyper-complicated, the steakhouse offers comforting dessert parameters: there’s the cheesecake box, the crème brûlée box, the chocolate layer cake, the icebox pie, and so on. “The classics are the classics for a reason,” says Lindsey Farr of New York’s Restaurant Marc Forgione. “Especially from a steakhouse, people want what reminds them of home. They want to feel...