Indian Sweets Combine Sugar and Spice

Ariel Cheung

There’s a rigidity to traditional French cuisine that just doesn’t exist with Indian food, says Sujan Sarkar. “There aren’t any set recipes, so people tweak it how they want. That’s why the cuisine is so diverse.” The chef would know—he spent his youth in Kolkata before rising through the ranks of kitchens in Delhi and Mumbai and making a splash in London at the esteemed Automat and Almada. Eventually, he...