Balancing Classic and Modern on the Dessert Menu

Soulful Sweets

We have language at the ready to describe certain classic pastries around the world; the French croissant with its flaky, yielding texture, or the anise-infused crisp of Italian biscotti. But ask a chef to describe traditional desserts of Eastern Europe compared to their Western counterparts, and prepare for a long pause.

“Things aren’t supposed to be super-light; that’s not the point,” begins Michelle Polzine of 20th Century Cafe...