Crab Rangoon, but Make It Cheffy

If there’s a dish that captures the vaguely global character of the American dining experience, the beloved crab rangoon—deep-fried wontons stuffed with imitation crab meat and sweetened cream cheese—might have a compelling claim for the title. Ostensibly, the dish is Chinese-American (the dairy is a dead giveaway that it’s not strictly Asian), but its name references the city of Rangoon, the former capital of Burma, now Myanmar. 

Trader Vic’s, the...