Magazine

Burnt Meat Gets Surprising Cred in the Kitchen

Nevin Martell

The idea that you would purposely burn a piece of meat might run contrary to everything you know about cooking. Why would you ruin a perfectly good piece of protein by scruffing it up with a layer of char? Turns out that if it’s properly done, that black bark can contain a wealth of smoky, caramelized flavors, while locking in the meat’s rich natural juices.

“There’s something innately primal about cooking over an open...