Boar, Rabbit and More Get Into the Breakfast Game

Mike Gebert

It’s easy to find game dishes for every meal—with one exception: brunch. Even restaurants celebrated for serving game at night seem a little squeamish about offering it earlier—especially given that the brunch crowd is often still sensitive to the effects of the night before.

But as Owen Lane, formerly of Richmond, Va.’s The Magpie, puts it, “We do a lot of game at dinner. We...