A Licorice-Cured Egg Yolk Dessert Straddles Savory and Sweet at Smyth

At Smyth in Chicago, the tasting menu segues from savory to sweet with a chewy egg yolk soaked in salted licorice and surrounded with frozen yogurt meringue.

“We created that last April, when it was winter going into spring,” says Karen Urie Shields, the pastry chef at Smyth, which she runs with her husband, chef John Shields. “We were establishing our friendship with The Farm [which...