An Italian Hamburger Dominates the Dessert Menu at an L.A. Seafood Shack

After the lemonfish poke, mussels with country ham, sticky stack of chili soy ribs and linguine and clams coated in uni aglio-olio, the last thing anyone needs at Son of a Gun, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s West Hollywood seafood shack, is an Italian hamburger. For dessert.

But there it sits on the menu with its cryptic four-word description—gianduja, brioche, caramel, Maldon—making the ice...