An Elegant, In-Between Seasons Dish: Ôma’s Kohlrabi-King Crab Ravioli

The dining room windows of Ôma in Dunham, Quebec, frame Mount Sutton, and in early autumn, the first traces of yellow and orange appeared on its slopes. Chef Hakim Chajar’s menu was also in flux as bounteous summer produce gave way to hardier storage crops. 

Chajar made a name for himself cooking in Montreal and, in 2014, winning “Les Chefs!,” the Canadian province’s answer to “Top...