Crab Salad and Waffle Fries Evoke Days by the Shore

The dishes at Giant Restaurant in Chicago sound and look fairly simple—“a little biscuit,” “Jonah crab salad,” “onion rings.” It almost makes you unprepared for the series of smart, complex flavors in each bite—almost, if you weren’t aware of the combined talents of partner-chefs Jason Vincent (Nightwood) and Ben Lustbader...