Bakers Draw on a Variety of Flours for Central American Breads

Max Falkowitz

"Let me put it this way,” José Navea says with a laugh when asked the age that he learned to make arepas. “Every Venezuelan should know how to make them. You learn as a child at home. It’s a cultural thing—they’re everywhere. You eat arepas for breakfast or dinner, never lunch.” Wait—he pauses. Scratch that. “Actually, many of the commercial arepa places...