Food

Actually, Caviar is Better on White Bread

Becky Duffett

At The Barn Steakhouse in Evanston, a rustic spot in an old-money Chicago suburb, caviar doesn’t arrive on a silver tray, each precious ounce nestled on ice like a crown jewel. Diners won’t find perfectly round blini tucked into starched white napkins, or painstakingly minced piles of eggs mimosa and fines herbes. There isn’t a mini mother-of-pearl spoon in sight. 

Here, caviar comes in the form of a humble sandwich. And...