En Rama Sherries Are a Gateway to the Changes Happening in Jerez

Last October, I had just sat down for lunch in the Spanish seaside town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and sweat was already dripping down my back. But as our dishes arrived—first a tuna-topped salad and then langoustines—out came a bottle of manzanilla en rama, burrowed in a bucket of ice...