Tsubaki's Courtney Kaplan Schools Us on Sake

Courtney Kaplan is steeped in sake tradition—she spent a year in Japan in college, became fascinated with the unique, infinitely varied beverage while working at a New York City bar that offered 50 to 60 by the glass, and is now sommelier/co-owner of izakaya Tsubaki in Los Angeles. But you could say she also thinks literally outside the box.

A...