Baijiu Shines With Funky, Fruity Flavors

You can’t simply slide baijiu into a classic cocktail. The Chinese spirit, most often made with sorghum or rice, doesn’t happily sub for gin in a Negroni the way mezcal does, giving a smoky backbone to what usually blooms floral against a bitter background. Baijiu’s (pronounced bye-joe) flavor barrels in and demands the rest of the drink work around it. Though some bartenders have begun to...