Chefs to Watch 2015: Nick Erven, Saint Martha, Los Angeles

Chandra Ram

The chef’s counter might be the best seat in the house at Saint Martha, but don’t expect a beautiful, spare show kitchen in this restaurant tucked in a strip mall in Los Angeles’ Koreatown. Instead, the tiny space is packed with signs that people work here, fitting for a restaurant named after the patron saint of cooks and servants. Shelves hold Mason jars filled with spices, while...