Ryan Prewitt Closes the Gap on Ocean-to-Table Dining at New Orleans' Pêche

As a Memphis native, Ryan Prewitt learned to discern the smoky-sweet nuances of a pulled pork sandwich early on. A taste for catfish developed just as naturally. “My grandfather built a cabin on Pickwick Lake in north Mississippi, and we went there almost every weekend growing up,” he recalls. “A restaurant we knew only as ‘the catfish place’ was our regular Saturday night stop. I have memories of my grandfather ordering the catfish whole and...