Kelly Tamm Balances Precision with Live Fire at Leña Brava

Liz Grossman

Without dials, temperature controls or gas hookups at Chicago’s Leña Brava, Pastry Chef Kelly Tamm must rely on her ability to read the fire—specifically the hot and cold spots of a wood-fired oven—to make cookies, cakes, tarts and more. We chatted with Tamm about her breakthrough dessert, the cake she’s still looking to perfect and if she’s really ready to give up gas cooking for good....