Japan is the Must-Visit Country for a New Generation of Chefs

Todd Kliman

When Robert Wiedmaier opened Siren in Washington, D.C., last spring, diners primed themselves for a pricey, piscine take on the chef’s throwback brand of French cooking, with its inveterate love of butter sauces and reductions.

But take a look at the dishes that Executive Chef John Critchley is sending off the line. Big-eye tuna, carved thin and rolled like slices...