How a Brigade-free Kitchen Works at Houston’s The Pass & Provisions

Several years ago, when a chef asked a group of stages at The Fat Duck if anyone was also interested in learning pastry, only Seth Siegel-Gardner raised his hand. That willingness to branch out resulted in his getting to spend significantly more time working hands-on in the kitchen than his single-minded peers, and the experience informs the division of labor (or lack thereof) at The Pass &...