Chefs to Watch 2019: Kyo Pang, Kopitiam, New York City

Liz Grossman

In Malaysia, the kopitiam, or a mash-up of “kopi,” or coffee in Malay, and “tiam,” or shop in Hokkien, is more than just a café where high-octane, hand-pulled coffee and simple dishes like fish ball soup and kaya butter toast are served all day. It’s also a place passed down through generations. “Every family in Malaysia has their own kopitiam,” says Kyo Pang. “It probably started with your grandfather, who brought your...