Chefs to Watch 2019: Jonny Rhodes, Indigo, Houston

Chef Jonny Rhodes has a litmus test for poverty. “Grow up in a neighborhood with no grocery stores or [sit-down] restaurants in your community, and you’ll learn to hate yourself,” he says. “As a kid, everywhere I went, all we ate was soul food. I hated it.”

Despite recent attempts to elevate it to its rightful place in haute cuisine, soul food (the colloquialism lovingly applied to the style of cooking created by slaves...