Chefs to Watch 2018: David Nayfeld, Che Fico, San Francisco

Lauren Sloss

Even during off hours, the dining room at San Francisco’s Che Fico has an undercurrent of pulsing energy. You could call it the calm before the storm of guests (who’ve been waiting in line for over an hour) enter promptly at 5:30 p.m. Deliveries are arriving. Menu changes are negotiated. Golden sheets of pasta are methodically rolled and cut by hand to a hip-...