Chefs to Watch 2017: Michael and Tara Gallina, Vicia, St. Louis

Joe Bargmann

St. Louis is a traditional town, with a strong affection for its beer, baseball and burgers. In the food category, you can also add Italian: For near decades, Tony’s—a posh, old-school place—reigned as the only four-star restaurant, and The Hill neighborhood was perpetually redolent of simmering red sauce, baking bread and garlic.

All of that remains intact, but today a sense of change...