Chefs to Watch 2014: Kristen Murray, Måurice, Portland, Ore.

Martha Holmberg

Portland, Ore., is a city that rewards individuality, yet many of its individualist, chef-driven restaurants are predictably similar. Recycled lumber? Check. Kraft paper menus? Check. Tats and a touch of bad-assery? Dude.

And while the best food in Portland is truly, deeply good, it follows a pattern: Local ingredients filtered through the lens of comfort food by way of the Mediterranean, and bearing a few strands of DNA from the ...