Wildair’s Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra Serve Playful Food Designed to Go With Natural Wines

In the wine world, everyone has an opinion about the word “natural.” For some writers, educators, and sommeliers, it represents the correct, historic way—a throwback to winemaking’s roots. Others think it’s a fad, an abomination, a way for winemakers to hide flaws and off flavors. Still another faction accepts or even likes these wines, but they’re bothered that it’s a word without definition, and can we please...