Simone Tong Shines a Light on Mixian and Yunnan Cuisine at Little Tong Noodle Shop

It was pouring rain in New York’s East Village when I made my way to Little Tong Noodle Shop, Simone Tong’s ode to Yunnan cuisine. The menu centers on mixian, rice noodles that Tong pairs with broths, sauces, pickles, and other ingredients, as in the signature Little Pot Mixian, with pork broth, minced pork and shiitake, pickled mustard stems, fresh herbs, and a drizzle of chili vinaigrette, which I immediately...