Jason Hammel Keeps People Coming Back to Chicago's Iconic Lula Cafe

Andrew Friedman

Jason Hammel wasn’t born to the kitchen. He didn’t grow up captivated by grainy black-and-white Julia Child reruns, or thrilling to the escapades of the Galloping Gourmet. He didn’t pore over the elegance and wit of Richard Olney’s recipes, or cry tears of appreciation at the coda of an epiphanic meal savored along a riverbank in...