Why San Francisco's Wildseed is the Model for Plant-Based Dining

Language matters. Chef Blair Warsham doesn’t call Wildseed, which he opened in San Francisco in September 2019, a vegan restaurant. It’s plant-based, thanks very much. “We try to keep the politics out of it,” says Warsham. But make no mistake: Despite references to burgers, bacon, eggs, and cheese on the menu, there’s not an animal product to be found in the place.

And, for the record, Warsham doesn’t...