Francie Makes the Case for a Different Valentine’s Service—or None at All

Until John Winterman opened Francie, the Brooklyn restaurant he co-owns with Chef Chris Cipollone, working Valentine’s Day service was a given. But after years of converting dining rooms into a sea of two-tops and selling high-priced, pre-fixe menus, Winterman (whose industry credits include Charlie Trotter’s, Gary Danko, Daniel, Café Boulud, and Bâtard) and...