Pastry Chefs as Executive Chefs

“Everywhere you look, you see all these techniques that used to only be in pastry, everywhere in savory nowadays,” says Emma Bengtsson. “They’ve started to meld together to the point now where you don’t really know what the difference is anymore. You can look at a dish and wonder if it’s savory or sweet.” 

After a 15-year run in pastry, first in her native Sweden and then at New York’s venerable...