Old-School Sauce Work Binds the Menu and Staff at Les Trois Chevaux

What happens if Jose Rodriguez calls in sick? “We’re fucked,” says Angie Mar, chef/owner of Les Trois Chevaux in New York City. Specifically, Mar must work the sauce station on top of her usual expo duties. “We’ve been open for almost two years, and Jose is the only person I’ve ever trusted at that station.”

Rodriguez and Mar go way back—since the early days of The...