New Ways Chef Jeremy Umansky Is Experimenting with Salt and Koji at Larder

There are only two universal ingredients: koji and salt. Seriously. Feel free to rack your brain to find a dish that doesn’t contain salt—or one in which koji couldn’t be deployed—but I’ll save you the headache. They don’t exist. We rely on both to flavor and transform foods—from ice cream to haggis and thousand-year eggs. Of course, salt is a must, while koji can and will make your food taste better....