At Nami Kaze, Jason Peel Explores the Complexities of Cooking in Hawaii

Nami Kaze sits on Honolulu’s Pier 38—tucked beneath a major seafood distributor and far from the ritzy resorts, parties, and touristy luaus of bustling Waikiki. Still, the industrial dock has its own kind of music and energy: the whirl of metal cables winching shipping containers off cargo ships, commercial fishermen unloading their hauls, and trucks rumbling by from an ice plant. On an average day, 90,000 pounds of fish will be...