Chefs and Restaurants

Mona Leena’s F-Bomb Worthy Shuka-Quiles at Lulu in Berkeley

Liz Grossman

Mona Leena was the executive chef of Palestinian restaurant Dyafa for six months before it shuttered due to COVID, but it was enough time for her to try a family-meal dish that had the staff dropping f-bombs. “People were freaking out, saying, ‘Mona, what the fuck did you just make?’” she says of her green shuka-quiles, a mash-up of shakshuka and chilaquiles. “I used shakshuka sauce we had left over from brunch and extra...